Surfing Life

I love the ocean, the feel of the wind and walking on the tiny shards of quarts and coral, the materials that comprise the majority of what makes sand, sand.


I do love being in the water, but am not necessarily a sportsman. I can swim and dive and have water skied, but for some reason, surfing has not called my name. I love how Spicoli speaks of his passion for the sport, epitomizing the freedom and life of a surfer in an over the top comedic way.

I had the opportunity to rub shoulders with a variety of surf boards ranging from the nearly hundred pound old school boards to the sleek light weight ones of today. This is a great review of the current MACC show on Maui. I had the honor of designing and building methods to hang each of the boards, touching and lifting each one carefully and putting them into place for display.

Here is a link to the MACC show if you happen to be on Island and also the source of my featured image.

Surfing Hawaii

I wake this morning after having the opportunity to immerse myself into the ocean yesterday on a snorkel trip. It had been a while since I participated in a group excursion. The water was warm and clear. The tropical fish were very colorful and for the most part, interested only in their daily life, foraging for food and swimming around doing what fish do.

This was the company that hosted the excursion:

Ultimate Whale Watch

Screen Shot 2018-12-29 at 08.34.26

As I begin to grapple with making coffee and thinking about the joy of the ocean again, my mind wanders to the question. What is all the hype about surfing?  I found this great article which lists some very good reasons and answers my query.

Why Surfing

I resonate with many of them from the health reasons to the joy of living life and being in the moment, challenged with adventure and the risk of holding onto your life, when your mind, body and soul, rise up to perform.

I think my favorite one is this one:

#6 In the lineup, you’re alone with everybody;

It reminds me of how important it is to live life on your own terms and in your own way, and yet how very important it is to share life with everyone.

Life is an most certainly an adventure. We are all in this together, surfing life and finding that perfect wave six seconds at a time.



One comment on “Surfing Life”
  1. Lana Cole says:

    Great post. Thank you!


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